Leather and leather goods
Skiving, splitting, die cutting and automated cutting
Technical context
Key points
The production of footwear, bags, belts, covers and upholstery elements requires control over material thickness, cutting accuracy and leather consumption. Local edge skiving, thickness levelling by splitting, die cutting and cutting are adapted to the type of leather and the part being processed.
The microclimate influences the flexibility, dimensional stability and appearance of the leather in the workshop and the store.
Humidity variations can affect both processing and the storage of the raw material.
Texco supplies skiving and splitting equipment, cutting boards, automated cutting systems, CAD software, steam finishing equipment for components covered with leather or textiles, spraying systems for applying adhesives and surface treatments, and humidity control solutions.
Technical specifications
What matters technically in the leather and leather goods industry
- 01
Air humidity in the workshop and store
Leather absorbs or releases moisture according to the conditions in the working environment. Overly dry air can stiffen the material, while high humidity increases the risk of distortion, stains and mould. The target value is set according to the type of leather, temperature, process and storage period.
- 02
Splitting uniformity
Splitting reduces thickness over the entire surface or separates the material into layers. The accuracy of the setting influences the uniformity of the material and how it behaves in subsequent operations.
- 03
Material yield in cutting
Leather has an irregular outline and areas that must be excluded from nesting. CAD software optimises the positioning of parts on the available surface. Natural defects can be taken into account when they are marked or digitised in the workflow.
- 04
Cutting board quality
The cutting board supports the cut and protects the knives. Its material, hardness, flatness and wear resistance influence cutting accuracy and knife service life. The choice is made according to the type of press, the material processed and the die-cutting method.
- 05
Skiving accuracy
Skiving reduces thickness locally, especially at the edges and in joining areas. Correct adjustment supports even stitching, precise folding and controlled thickness in overlapping areas.
- 06
Applying adhesives and surface treatments
Equipment selection starts from the material’s technical data sheet and safety data sheet, viscosity, flow rate, application type, production rate and intended result. Whether application is manual, automatic or robotic is determined separately.
- 07
Surface finishing quality
For parts compatible with steam finishing, the process reduces creases and stabilises the appearance before inspection or assembly. The parameters are adapted to the type of leather, the finish applied and the construction of the part.
- 08
Production line output
Set-up time, working speed and level of automation influence line capacity. Equipment with repeatable settings reduces stoppages and variation between batches.
Products
Texco equipment for the leather and leather goods industry
Skiving machine Fortuna ES 50
Skiving machine with continuously adjustable electronic feed, for footwear, leather goods and orthopaedic applications.
Skiving machine Fortuna 50 KK-S
Skiving machine for thick and hard materials, with a driven upper feed roller and adjustable knife speed.
Band knife splitting machine Fortuna AB 320
Splitting machine with band knife, digital thickness display and automatic knife positioning.
Automatic cutting machine BULLMER PREMIUMCUT
Modular single-ply cutter for leather and other flexible materials, with quick tool change and configurations adaptable to the production flow.
Automatic cutting machine BULLMER X-CUT
Compact single-ply cutting system, suited to workshops with limited space and flexible production.
Soft Cad Crea Solutions
Software for pattern design, grading and nesting. Compatibility with the cutting system is checked according to the formats and configuration used.
Röchling Hydroma Cutting Board HY 71 green
Used in the footwear, leather and paper industries for die cutting leather, leather fibreboard, paper and cardboard.
Röchling Hydroma Cutting Board HY 73 multicoloured
Multi-purpose cutting board for swing-arm die-cutting presses, suited to leather and sole materials.
Röchling Hydroma Cutting Board HY 76 grey
Recommended for the sandwich die-cutting method, on roller installations.
WALTHER PILOT spraying systems and equipment
Guns and systems for controlled application of paints, lacquers, adhesives and sealants on leather goods and components.
Interior Finisher Veit IF 60
Equipment for finishing interior components covered with leather or textiles, before final inspection.
Consulting
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Methodology
How Texco works in leather processing and leather goods
- 01 Technical analysis
Texco analyses the types of leather and materials processed, the volumes, the critical operations and the conditions in the workshop or store.
- 02 Sizing and choosing the configuration
For processing equipment, the checks cover the type and thickness of the leather, the working width, whether the operation is local or over the whole surface, the production rate and the required tolerances. For cutting and die cutting, the analysis covers the material dimensions, the defects to be excluded, the type of parts and the cutting method.
Spraying systems are configured according to the material applied, viscosity, flow rate and intended result, while humidification and dehumidification systems are sized on the volume of the space, temperature, air changes and target value. - 03 Installation and commissioning
The equipment is installed, calibrated on the actual material and integrated into the existing workflow. Commissioning includes checking the parameters and testing parts.
- 04 Technical documentation
Texco supplies the data sheets, operating manuals, operating parameters and maintenance instructions provided for each piece of equipment.
Technical support
Frequently asked questions
- 01 What is the difference between skiving and splitting?
Skiving reduces thickness locally, especially at the edges and in joining areas. Splitting processes the entire surface or separates the material into layers.
- 02 How is the cutting board chosen?
According to the type of press, the material cut, the die-cutting method and the hardness recommended for the application. The cutting board supports the cut and protects the knives. It is chosen according to the type of press, the material cut, the die-cutting method and the hardness recommended for the application.
- 03 What humidity is suitable for storing leather?
There is no universal value for all types of leather. Humidity is set according to the type and finish of the material, the temperature, the next process and the storage period, avoiding both excessive drying and conditions that encourage distortion or mould.
- 04 Can CAD software avoid natural defects in leather?
Yes, if the defects are marked or scanned and included in the nesting process. Standard CAD software does not identify them automatically.
- 05 When is a single-ply cutter suitable?
For natural leather, samples, short runs and customised products, where the material is positioned and cut individually.
- 06 Which dehumidifier is used at low temperatures?
A model designed for low temperatures, such as the Condair DC-LT, or a desiccant system where very low humidity is required.
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